I love the subtle shift of the seasons as we move from summer into autumn. There never seems to be any consensus on exactly when autumn starts but for me something changes around the September equinox. Blackberries are giving way to sloes in the hedgerows and it’s harvest time again at my secret mushroom spots. On that note a friend from France has promised to take me truffle hunting but says the best time of year is December. Apparently, he can do it by sight alone. No trained snuffling pigs or dogs for him. We shall see.
Mushrooms are perfect with pinot noir. If you haven’t experienced the joy of a mushroom omelette with flat leaf parsley and a glass of red Burgundy or a pinot noir from Oregon, Australia or Otago then you are missing out on one of life’s great food pairing sensations. Add some bacon or pancetta too if you want to go all out.
If you like game then think about buying wines that go well with partridge, pheasant, wild duck and venison. If you are searing your duck or venison in a pan and then cooking it through in the oven then try Cabernet Sauvignon or a red from SW France like Madiran or Cahors. These wines go particularly well when you add hedgerow fruits into the pan.
If you are pot roasting a bird, then you need to keep things moist with the lid on with a couple of veggies like celery or carrot wand a glass or two of Marsala or Vermouth in the pot. The game can be local, but I’d go for a northern Italian red like Barbera or Nebbiolo.
Nebbiolo is considered by many to be the most noble grape in Italy. First mentioned in the 13th century it is said to be derived from the word nebbia (fog) on account of the grape’s dusty bloom. Early budding and late ripening it struggles to ripen unless planted on sunny, exposed south facing slopes and is highly site sensitive. Naturally high in acids and tannins, Nebbiolo wines have complex aromas of dried red fruits, rose petals, sweet spices, leather and truffles. The best wines combine a wonderful perfume and finesse and can age for many years.
The two classic Nebbiolo regions are Barolo DOCG and Barbaresco DOCG in Piemonte but look out for wines from Roero DOCG, Carema DOC and Gattinara DOCG also in Piemonte, Donnas in Valle d’Aosta and Valtellina Superiore DOCG and Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG in Lombardia.
Nebbiolo wines pair beautifully with game, polenta, truffle, mushrooms and slow cook braised meat dishes with a reduced sauce. The perfect wines for autumn you could say.
Sussex Wine School 